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hello
Oct 18, 2020 17:17:49 GMT
Post by geoff on Oct 18, 2020 17:17:49 GMT
hi all, just checking in. It has been a long time however today I put the carb back on and so will soon try to start the beast again. But first I must get my FIAT spider running - or rather stopping, again. Anyone out there still? best to all geoff
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hello
Oct 25, 2020 21:56:42 GMT
Post by velocekid2 on Oct 25, 2020 21:56:42 GMT
Hi Geoff,
So, your motoring allegiance has crossed the Alps then? I hope it's a Fiat Dino Spider you've got tucked away!
Likewise, still here checking the forum for new posts on a semi regular basis.
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hello
Nov 1, 2020 16:04:09 GMT
Post by geoff on Nov 1, 2020 16:04:09 GMT
Hi Paul, no not a Dino but only a 124 Spider. If I totaled it up, It has been probably a few years since the Velo has run! Now that we are locked up once more, I have yet again stripped the carb down and reassebled it. Still, it starts, runs for three or four minutes then just cuts out. I have no idea what to try next.
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hello
Nov 3, 2020 16:24:01 GMT
Post by geoff on Nov 3, 2020 16:24:01 GMT
In order to narrow down the problem, I have disconnected the electrical supply to the choke (I believe this means 'choke permanently ON'). The machine starts willingly then runs for one to two minutes then cuts out. Any ideas?
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hello
Nov 10, 2020 23:35:56 GMT
Post by velocekid2 on Nov 10, 2020 23:35:56 GMT
Hello Geoff, I may have posted this remedy before, so speak out if you've already tried this.
Lift the buddy seat and remove the fuel cap. Start the engine and see if the engine cuts out. Try and time how long the engine runs if it still cuts out.
When you do start the engine, do you just let it run on tickover until it dies? If so, try gently reving the engine continuously to overcome the point when it starts to run down.
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hello
Nov 15, 2020 13:36:28 GMT
Post by geoff on Nov 15, 2020 13:36:28 GMT
well The scooter runs fine when by-passing the tank and feeding a mixture into the carb. I am totally convinced now that it is the vacuum fuel feed which is the problem. It is a new one because I have been round this problem a dozen times now - but I fear this cheap chinese copy is not working ( although it actually leaks fuel slowly through it even without the engine running).
So for your interest, I think the sequence of events is; with the machine parked, the carb is receiving fuel slowly through the leaking tap but when running the tap is not opening enough so the machine stops as soon as the float chabmber is empty. Leave it parked for an hour or so and again she starts.
I think that when I get a new tap everything will be fine
cheers
geoff
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hello
Nov 16, 2020 0:54:31 GMT
Post by velocekid2 on Nov 16, 2020 0:54:31 GMT
Hi Geoff, the vacuum fuel tap was an Italian Paioli item and was pretty much used universally on many European manufactured mopeds and 125cc autos. May I suggest you see if you can track down a local bike breakers and obtain a second hand item taken from a known running machine. Ask if it's possible to exchange the second hand item should it fail to work. Also take the original tap with you for comparison. From memory, the distance between the centres of the mounting screws is 35 mm. The Paioli fuel tap - in my opinion - has a better base gasket than the other Italian manufactured fuel tap made by O.M.G. The gasket also surrounds the the area around the mounting screws as well as the fuel filter and supply tube. This shows both for visual comparison Otherwise, Italjet UK still supply the Paioli unit here;
As previously mentioned, you can buy an overhaul kit for the fuel tap, but last time I investigated, it was virtually the same price as an outright replacement. So, a no brainer then?
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Post by geoff on Nov 16, 2020 9:17:39 GMT
thanks for the link Phil. I will place an order today; cheers geoff
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hello
Nov 24, 2020 16:50:04 GMT
Post by geoff on Nov 24, 2020 16:50:04 GMT
well hello to "all". Interesting day today. Received the new vacuum tap ( and additional mirror - a fiver for a lovely chrome one ). As a car man - this being my first motorscicle - I was a bit surprised to have to remove the exhaust in order to remove the rear wheel - which I wanted to do so I could replace the tube because the previous owner had fitted a tube with a straight valve so it is impossible to inflate the tyre!. Of course one thing leads to another - I cannot separate the two halves of the wheel so a trip to my local garage tomorrow. also I am very disappointed in the engineering - or lack of it - in the stand for the machine. The half round mounting brackets simply secure the stand to the chassis and allow it to rotate, bearing upon the underside of the body. This is terrible engineering and has of course caused removal of the paint and subsequent rusting. I am wondering if I can somehow replace the mounting brackets with some kind a of phosphore bronze bearing so the stand does not pivot on the body of the machine. The existing arrangement is a shamefully bad arrangement and I hope I can improve on it.
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hello
Nov 26, 2020 0:27:19 GMT
Post by velocekid2 on Nov 26, 2020 0:27:19 GMT
Hello Geoff, oh yes - the joys of servicing a Velocifero! Some aspects are easy to work on, while others appear to reflect an inherent Italian enthusiasm over production engineering logic. As an aside, one example of this trait, was the jaw dropping engineering solution publicly displayed by the Italian team who fielded the ATS Tippo 100 formula one car in 1963. The team were largely made up of disgruntled ex Ferrari F1 employees, who decided to challenge their former employer with the construction of their own car. The Tippo 100’s handling was plagued by chassis flexing, so the ‘fix’ made was by adding reinforcement tubes over the top of the engine. The problem then arose that an engine change required these reinforcement tubes to be sawn through with a hacksaw - and then re-welded after the replacement engine had been fitted !!!! Crazy but true. OK, back to addressing the points you’ve highlighted. Suzuki have previous history of designing moped engines which necessitate the removal of the exhaust to service rear brake shoes or mending punctures etc. For guidance on inner tubes, valve stems and inner tube fitting, see my earlier post at: italjet.proboards.com/thread/209/tyre-pressures4th post down from top. Problems with splitting the rims. Try using a soft mallet against a wooden wedge - (like a door stopper wedge) - to work your way round the inner wheel halves. Follow this up using an upholstery tack puller/remover tool to lever the rims apart around the studs. Don’t worry about scratching the paint, as chances are that the paint will already have started to flake off anyway. If this is the case, find time to rub down the areas of corrosion and missing paint, prime and add a topcoat of new paint to make the job easier in the future. I have experimented to try and stop the issue of water ingress with split rims on my Vespa scooters. I tried applying a thin layer of clear mastic, which worked until I had to split the rims again, but the mastic took off the paint when doing this. I tried making a rubber gasket to sandwich between the rims, but haven’t found rubber sheeting both thin and large enough to do this. The half round stand brackets are of Piaggio Vespa heritage. The best solution is to apply liberal amounts of grease around the circumference of the stand where the brackets clamp. Sand and road grit get thrown up from the front wheel and can get embedded between the floorboard underside and the stand. So this will act like abraisive paper every time the stand rotates. If you’re not too worried about originality, you could always crib from the design of a Lambretta splash plate, fabricate your own splash guard, and drill cooling holes to align with the exhaust down pipe. Food for thought if nothing else!
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hello
Nov 29, 2020 17:51:43 GMT
Post by geoff on Nov 29, 2020 17:51:43 GMT
thanks Phil for all of this. I have de rusted the underside and 'bushed' the stand using plasic 'bearings' which I fabricated from some plastic tubing. This means that the stand now swivells within these 'bearings' rather than the original metal to metal contact. Seems to be working well. I will move on tomorrow to install the new Italian vacuum tap and then a road test - to buy some essential foodstuffs of course.
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hello
Nov 30, 2020 17:41:06 GMT
Post by geoff on Nov 30, 2020 17:41:06 GMT
well after a short run today, for the most part it looks good. I wonder if you can advise on the fact that it runs well but then revs high for a while when I stop - and then the revs die down. Is this likely to be a mixture problem? regards geoff
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hello
Dec 2, 2020 21:14:44 GMT
Post by velocekid2 on Dec 2, 2020 21:14:44 GMT
Not sure about this one Geoff. My Velocifero with a Dell Orto carb runs a high tickover and is not very responsive if you turn the idle screw down. But it does behave when you shut the throttle off. My other Velo with a Mikuni carb runs really smoothly.
It may be just the bellows on your new fuel tap that have yet to free off with it being so new. It would be interesting to see what happens when you go further afield and the engine runs for a longer period.
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