|
Post by ianmartin40 on Nov 26, 2020 20:44:37 GMT
Hi Folks Hello to all I have just made my first Velocifero purchase, it is on a 02 plate with the later style dash but still has 8 inch wheels, nothing electrical works, kick start slips and does not turn the engine over and the forks are sloppy in the frame, it is a bit tatty and various parts have had a coat of satin black paint to cheer them up, wheels and engine case etc I am sure I will be looking for some advice once I get started on it, first though I will fit a fully charged battery and see what happens.
Ian
|
|
|
Post by velocekid2 on Nov 27, 2020 1:16:37 GMT
Well done Ian.
Sounds like you’ve got yourself a nice project to see you out of Covid lockdown! The sloppy forks sounds like either new headstock bearings, or simply just tightening them up with a “C” spanner. It’s a time consuming job just to remove the headset and associated wiring components just to get to these bearings.
The kick starter could just be a bent quadrant shaft, damaged if the machine has fallen on to its left side. Fingers crossed that you can get a spark to get the engine running. Do you have much history of previous owners or original bill of sale to explain possibly why your 8” wheeled example took so long to sell and get road registered?
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Nov 28, 2020 20:31:39 GMT
Update The sloppy steering head bearings tightened up easily after removing a small cover under the headset. The scooter has a scratched side panel so I assume it has been over on the kick start side, however after removing the belt cover it looks like there is a spring washer missing as the small toothed gear that sits just in front of cooling fins on variator slips up and down the shaft easily, I thought it should have something pushing it inwards towards the variator, there is a couple of mm free play between the finned variator and the small circlip on the end of the shaft. I fitted a charged battery and found the 20A fuse had blown, replaced it and at firt when turning on ignition, the oil level light came on and the horn worked, but then nothing, and no starter, there is power to the ignition switch, and power out of it but no lghts/horn etc. many parts of this scooter have been tampered with as I have not found a tight fastener yet, and a lot of the connectors do not seem that tight, I was told the bike had no electrics working but did run a few months back.
No idea how many owners or history as no v5 yet, but was first reg in April 2002, maybe sat for years in a showroom as i am led to believe they were expensive for a 50cc ped
|
|
|
Post by geoff on Nov 29, 2020 17:42:34 GMT
welcome and good luck ianmartin. Sounds like you need to start tracing your way through the wiring diagram. All the best geoff
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Nov 29, 2020 18:14:25 GMT
Apparently the electrics all stopped working when the previous owner changed the battery, so obvously something has blown as well as the 20A fuse, any Ideas?
|
|
|
Post by geoff on Nov 30, 2020 17:35:06 GMT
you said you had changed the fuse? Are you able to check if you have 12V. on each side of the fuse? This is a good first step regards geoff
|
|
|
Post by velocekid2 on Dec 2, 2020 20:54:45 GMT
Hi Ian, As you succinctly put it, it certainly appears as if “many parts of this scooter have been tampered with” In the first instant, someone may have fitted an incorrect fuse. A 20 amp fuse is way too high!!!! The owners manual lists the fuse rating as 7 amps - while the “official” Velocifero wiring diagram lists it as 7.5 amps. So chances are that a circuit could be at best damaged, or worst - have fried - hopefully not. The second thing to check is the battery type - and consequently its rating. It should be a YB4L-battery delivering 12 Volts 4 Amps /hour. As Geoff has stated, work your way through sections of the wiring harness with either a circuit tester, or pocket size digital multimeter. Both are cheap as chips and fitted with a 9v 17R8H battery - the sort commonly used in domestic smoke alarms. Clean up as many electrical contacts as possible, including the base of the headlight bulbs. Check ALL bulbs are functioning, including the small “idiot” lights on the dash panel. The light switch assembly merely clamps to the handlebars with a screw and locates with a crude pin into a hole drilled in the handlebars. I can’t remember if you can see the switch contacts, but if so you may be able to check that they’re clean and shiny. Run the multimeter power through the switch positions and check for continuity of the feed to the lights and then the return. If this is all working, test the switch wiring from its block connector, to its related connector situated behind the horncast. I think there are three block connectors there all in the small aperture where a Vespa horn mounting pressing would be. If you still get a positive result, test the wiring back to the main loom feed from the battery from this second block connector. This should narrow down where the fault lies, it’s just a case of having a methodical approach and testing the circuits in small sections. For guidance on what circuits are powered by the battery alone, see my previous post - second down at: italjet.proboards.com/thread/157/lights-operation
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Dec 3, 2020 22:56:26 GMT
I have changed the fuse and re-made the fuse power out connector as the original connector was missing and the wire just wrapped round the spade on the fuse holder, as there was bare wire showing I hopes it had just touched the frame and blown the fuse, however obviously there is more wrong than just a blown fuse, I will remove the new 20A fuse and replace with 7.5A, I had power to the starter relay and power to the ignition switch once blown fuse replaced. I will remove horncast and check connections in there when I have a chance.
Thanks
Ian
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Dec 4, 2020 20:16:29 GMT
So I removed the horncast cover and found there have been several wiring repairs all close to the connector plugs, some of the wiring seems to have lost it`s insulation and been replaced with tape, some wires have heat shrink on the repairs. The ignition switch works fine, I changed the fuse to 7.5 amps and removed the speedo drive from headset to give me more space to test, I replaced the fuse, and have an oil light, however every time I pull the back brake lever, it blows the fuse so obviously a short to earth somewhere, but I need to re-do many of the repairs as they do not look good with some of the copper wires having oxidisation on them. A wiring diagram would be really helpful as I could trace/replace wires more easily, but I am aware no such thing exists.
|
|
|
Post by velocekid2 on Dec 7, 2020 1:26:16 GMT
Ian, sent you a PM
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Jan 1, 2021 17:58:40 GMT
Update The new spring for the kick start gear arrived and I fitted it so managed to kick it over and got a spark with the ignition on, it would not start, so put carb cleaner down plug hole, re-fitted plug and it started briefly, removed air filter and placed rag over carb to act as a choke and it starts and runs, but from cold it will not start without the added assistance of some sort of reduction in airflow so at least I know it is a runner or kind of, once running it runs fine without the added choke. I still have many electrical issues but will work on them.
Ian
|
|
|
Post by velocekid2 on Jan 2, 2021 2:13:15 GMT
Good work Ian, seems you’ve been productive over the combined Festive break and Tier restrictions.
Your restriction of the air volume to fuel ratio on your carb could point to a problem with the automatic choke. I have added a couple of links to online videos showing how the choke works on the thread Geoff started, see: italjet.proboards.com/thread/260/contols-choke
If you test your choke and find it requires replacement, I can offer some online links for a replacement without hammering your wallet.
Keep up the good work.
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Jan 24, 2021 12:43:36 GMT
I removed the auto choke and connected it up to a battery and the needle moves as expected and the body heats up, and on cooling down it retracts so it appears to work, just that the bike needs a rag stuffed onto end of carb to restrict air enough for it to start, once statred it is fine. quick question, on removal of the auto choke the needle although in the retracted posiotion it is not fully retracted and can be pushed back further by hand, but then springs back to it`s original position, should it be held back tightly when cold?
Ian
|
|
|
Post by velocekid2 on Jan 28, 2021 21:56:17 GMT
Ian, I think that pushing the choke needle back from it’s stand off/parked position will result in trying to compress the thermo wax more than the internal volume it occupies - hence why it recoils back to the parked position.
Also, you don’t mention whether your machine is fitted with a Dellorto or Mikuni carb. I don’t know if both carbs are fitted with the same auto choke for similar direct comparison. As long as the needle travel appears to move the same amount in the video, you shouldn’t have any worries.
|
|
|
Post by ianmartin40 on Jan 30, 2021 17:47:54 GMT
It is a Dellorto carb and the needle moves about the same as the vid
|
|